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Decaffeinated Coffee
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Talking about decaf sometimes reminds me of the old comedy routine about spaghetti
growing on trees. Almost any story can sound plausible if you don't have the basic information.
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All decaffeination processes --
 | start with ordinary green coffee beans, |
 | are done in large industrial plants,
and |
 | use a solvent that is supposed to dissolve
only caffeine and leave the stuff that makes coffee taste good.
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The important
difference among decaf processes is in which "solvent" is used
to dissolve the caffeine. Chemical solvents, most often methylene
chloride (MC), are both effective and cheap. The problem is not
that there is a residue left in the coffee -- MC is highly volatile even
at room temp, and remember that coffee is roasted at over 400F -- but
rather that there are environmental hazards associated with using toxic
substances such as MC on a large scale.
Using water as the solvent solves the environment problem, but water
dissolves not only the caffeine but also other, desirable components in
the bean, so there's a loss of flavor. There are ways to mitigate
this loss. The Swiss Water® company has developed (and patented)
one such method, as well as a highly effective marketing campaign.
We
favor a third method which uses liquefied carbon dioxide (CO2) as the
solvent. This process was
developed
in the 1970's by the German company Hermsen and is still done only in their plants in Bremen.
Many coffee origins are now available in this process which is used by
many of the country's top specialty roasters. Not only does CO2 decaf
taste better, but, from a roasters viewpoint, it's easier to roast well because it behaves more like regular green coffee. My only
complaint is that Hermsen couldn't market their way out of a coffee bag,
so there is little public awareness of the CO2 process and its
advantages.
A further problem with either
Swiss Water® or CO2 decaf is the price. In
today's market, they can be easily double or more the cost of their
not-decaffeinated counterparts. |
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